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A 17th Century Mughal Haveli: The Birthplace of St. Stephen's College in Chandni Chowk

Nestled in the narrow streets of Old Delhi, the Sheesh Mahal quietly tells the story of St. Stephen's Colleges' origins. This 17th century Mughal mansion, located in Katra Kushal Rai near Chandni Chowk served as a starting point for one of India’s most esteemed educational institutions.


Originally built during the Mughal era in the century the Sheesh Mahal was a grand residence for Ashraf Beg, a respected high official in Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar’s court.

With a name that translates to "Palace of Mirrors " the Sheesh Mahal was likely adorned with mirror designs characteristic of Mughal architecture. This ornate style was popular among structures and reflected the grandeur of that period.

Sheesh Mahal, the first campus of St.Stephen's College in Delhi (Image: Arvind Kumar, IAS)
Sheesh Mahal, the first campus of St.Stephen's College in Delhi (Image: Arvind Kumar, IAS)

Adding to its significance Ashraf Beg’s daughter, Aliza Begum was one of Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar’s wives. This familial tie highlights the buildings importance within Mughal Delhi’s political circles.


In 1881 the Cambridge Mission, to Delhi selected this building as their college premises. Imagine students strolling through lanes into a world where ancient Mughal design intersected with Western education.


With five students and three teachers, St. Stephen's College embarked on its beginnings at this location. The contrast would have been noticeable. Classes in Logic, Literature and Persian reverberating through corridors that once hosted sophisticated conversations. When you gaze upon Sheesh Mahal today you can almost catch the echoes of those early intellectual discussions.


By 1888 the student population had expanded to 40 likely feeling significant within the havelis walls. This growth led to the relocation to premises at Kashmere Gate in 1891. Today, a simple plaque commemorates the buildings significance in St. Stephens history.


The colleges tenure at Sheesh Mahal goes beyond historical record. It serves as a testament to educations ability to transcend barriers and change lives. From this haveli to its present expansive campus, St. Stephens journey mirrors Delhi’s own progression.

St Stephen's college
The campus of St.Stephen's College now

While wandering through Chandni Chowk and indulging in delicacies from Paranthe Wali Gali take a moment to locate Katra Kushal Rai. Stand before Sheesh Mahal. Ponder about those pioneering scholars. Did they anticipate their involvement, in something that would become so impactful?


This hidden treasure serves as a reminder that esteemed institutions often have beginnings.

The enduring essence of education is highlighted, revealing how the quest for knowledge can thrive in settings. When you find yourself in Old Delhi take a moment to consider Sheesh Mahal. Within its walls resides a narrative of ambition, progress and the profound impact of learning. A tangible connection to history and a testament to the remarkable journey of St. Stephens and indeed Delhi, as a whole.

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