All travel and tourism websites claim that the two most popular and well-known local markets of Jaipur are Bapu Bazaar and Johari Bazaar. They are both renowned for selling authentic and high-quality Rajasthani textiles, accessories, handlooms, leather products, etc. So, on a recent trip to Jaipur, upon my grandmother's request to get the famous Jaipuri blankets, I found myself right outside the Hawa Mahal, during the hustling-bustling streets of Johari Bazaar. After the first two stores I visited, I could tell that something was different since the last time I visited Jaipur. The quality of fabric and print of these blankets did not resemble the intricate, block printing blankets that I had been using since my childhood.
I am a Sindhi and have always been taught to spend money wisely. So, the thought of a mere 3k leaving my pocket gives me a guilt as piercing as a dagger. Therefore, I wanted to make sure that I evaluated my options and got the best deal. The next day we visited the beautiful tourist spot i.e. Amer Fort. Here we witnessed the local communities practicing the art of block printing. They highlighted the entire process of using a wooden block and natural dyes created from vegetables to create beautiful block printed fabrics.
When we asked the artisans about the prices of their blankets, we thought that they were trying to take advantage of us being tourists and quote a price higher than the original because to our surprise these prices were much higher than the ones that prevailed in Johari Bazaar. Upon enquiring, we were told that the bazaar has cheap prices because instead of the traditional, authentic, and pure Rajasthani textiles, the vendors try to swindle the tourists and sell screen printed textiles which are mass produced and hence cheaper.
As I walked through the bazaar, I could not help but notice how the once-proud vendors selling beautiful block-printed sarees and dupattas were now offering mass-produced, machine-made fabrics. These prints, although vibrant, lack the soul and story that come with traditional block printing. It is a change that saddens me deeply because block printing is not just about patterns; it is about the hands that create them, the traditions passed down through generations.
The essence of these markets, built on trust and artisanry, seems to be slipping away. We were shocked when we got to know that the situation has worsened to such an extent that the two famous Bazaars are now popularly known not for their authentic products but for fooling the tourists. The locals now jokingly call Johari Bazaar “Chori Bazaar,” which means “Thief Market” referring to how the vendors try to pass off screen-printed fabrics as authentic block prints, cheating both tourists and locals alike. Similarly, Bapu Bazaar, has now been named “Daaku Bazaar” or “Robber Market” among the locals.
I got the most intricate natural wood- block printed Jaipuri blanket with blue and white flowers from Amer Fort. but we were saddened to see the dying art of authentic Jaipuri block printing. The vendors have forgotten that this age-old art is less about the product and more about the people working hard to produce them. It is a tradition passed down by the ancestors and should not be lost to people simply aiming to commercialize markets to maximize their own profits. But all hope is not lost. Places like Amer Fort still possess a glimmer of the old Jaipur where culture and traditions are still alive.
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