Did you notice Sonam Kapoor turning heads at a recent event when she wore this exquisite saree from the Western state of Gujarat? This traditional saree of Gujarat is popularly known as Gharchola. The saree is traditionally worn as a wedding outfit by Gujarati women as it holds deep cultural significance for the community. Dating back to hundreds of years, Gharchola originated in the Khambat region of Gujarat as it was one of the most popular trade-centers in India.
The word, ‘Gharchola’ is made using two words, ‘Ghar’ meaning home and ‘Chola’ which refers to clothing. Together, Gharchola signifies the wedding costume of the bride, often representing marital bliss and family ties. The saree carries huge religious importance in Gujarati weddings as it is traditionally gifted to the bride by her mother-in-law as a symbol of love, blessings and acceptance into the new family. The saree is usually worn by the bride as an Odhni, draped over her head and across her shoulder during important wedding rituals, such as the Mangal Phera implying that she comes with everyone’s blessings and good wishes.
Gharchola represents more than just beauty and elegance; it is an epitome of auspicious beginnings, prosperity and the sacred bond of marriage. Gharchola is also crafted in Jamnagar, Surat, Rajkot and the in Surendra Nagar district apart from Khambat as the water quality is often considered suitable for the colors and fabric to stand out. The saree is authentically crafted using Venkatgiri Cotton which is often wrongly interpreted as Silk due to the silk like quality and sheen of the Venkatgiri cotton which is sourced from Southern India. Gharcholas are mainly characterised by the squared/grid pattern and intricate Zari work on it. The grid is always formed in a pattern of 9, 12 and 52 square patterns. The boxes in the grid of Gharchola have a Zari border which can be thick or thin, in accordance with the design of the sari.
Originally, the saree is first woven using fabric and zari threads to create the grid like pattern and then the base fabric is dyed in a way that each squared box has a Bandhani motif in it. The saree is often adorned with meaningful motifs like – parrot symbolizing love and devotion, paisleys and peacocks representing fertility and abundance, elephants depicting strength and auspiciousness. These motifs are a symbol of love and blessings to the newly wed bride. Propitious shades of colors like Red, Green and Yellow are traditionally used to craft Gharcholas symbolizing fertility and new beginnings, combined with the gold threads, which stand for wealth and divine blessings, which makes the saree a powerful symbol of good fortune for the bride.
The price of Gharchola can vary between INR 5,000 to INR 30,000 depending on the quality of the fabric used and the intricacy of the design while the high end, intricately designed sarees with rich fabric and detailed Zari work can go up to INR 50,000. As we write about the Gharchola saree, we are reminded of the cultural heritage that traditional artforms bring to the forefront. With fast-fashion emerging, these handicrafts and traditional clothing need to be preserved as they are more than just garments; they are a living piece of history.
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