In a narrow lane of Mumbai's Mazgaon, where old buildings lean against each other like tired soldiers, stands a two-storey structure that could easily be mistaken for just another residential building. The only hint of its sacred identity is a gate painted in striking red and gold - Welcome to the Kwan Kung Temple, Mumbai's last remaining Chinese temple.
Step inside, and the world changes. The wooden staircase creaks with stories a century old, leading you to the Tham family's home on the first floor. They've been the temple's guardians since it was built in 1919, when this area was known as Bombay's Chinatown. "I'm Chinese, but Mumbai is my home," Albert Tham will tell you with a gentle smile, as he hands over the keys to the temple above.
Climbing to the second floor, you're greeted by three benevolent faces - Fuk, Luk, and Sau, the Chinese gods of blessing, longevity, and prosperity, watching from a vibrant mural. Paper lanterns sway gently overhead, their red glow warming the Chinese calligraphy that adorns the walls.
The main temple room opens up like a treasure chest of crimson and gold. At its heart, a commanding painting of Guan Gong, the Chinese god of justice and courage, oversees all who enter. Three horses stand in statue form nearby - his legendary steeds, the caretaker will tell you in hushed tones. The altar below sparkles with offerings: fruits, red envelopes hiding rice or money, and golden paper catching the light from burning incense.
Once, this temple stood at the heart of a thriving Chinese community. The streets of Mazgaon buzzed with Cantonese conversations, the aroma of authentic Chinese cuisine wafted from restaurants, and shops displayed exotic wares from the East. But history had other plans. The Indo-Sino war of 1962 scattered the community to the winds, leaving behind just a thousand souls where thousands once lived.
Yet, the temple persists. During Chinese New Year and the Moon Festival, its quiet halls come alive with up to 500 visitors. Fortune-seekers still shake the ancient jar of prophecy sticks, matching their numbers to the bamboo sheets that line the walls. Offerings are still collected and ceremonially released into the Arabian Sea, connecting Mumbai's waters with age-old Chinese traditions.
As evening falls, stand on the temple's balcony and watch the neighborhood below. Listen carefully to the symphony of Mumbai life - perhaps you'll hear, carried on the sea breeze, echoes of old Chinatown, still alive in this corner of our maximum city, still telling its story through red lanterns and whispered prayers.
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