When thinking about Goa most people imagine beaches, lively nightlife and churches with a touch. However, nestled in the heart of this Indian state is a hidden gem I unexpectedly discovered; the wooden temples of Goa.
On my recent tour of Goa, our tour-guide looking at my love for art, culture and history showed us a never-seen-before sight of Goa-its wooden temples. We first headed to the Shri Narayan temple. It wasn't grand or extravagant like the temples featured in travel magazines. Instead, it was a building that appeared to have grown naturally from the ground itself. While its walls were constructed from stone it was the wooden interior that truly captivated me. Upon entering I encountered a dim ambience that stood in contrast to the hot and humid weather outside. Gradually adjusting my eyes, I found myself encircled by carved pillars. Each pillar narrated a tale – depicting scenes from the Ramayana intricately etched into the wood with care. The level of artistry was remarkable especially considering these columns had remained here for centuries.
The tour guide noticed my interest. He began explaining in his broken English using animated gestures to supplement his words. He highlighted how the roof had an elevation, in the middle to allow for ventilation.
The smart design of the building kept it cool in the climate of Goa. Over the following weeks I set out to discover more of these structures. Each one I came across had its charm yet they all shared a common bond. A deep connection, to the land and its people. In Cola I encountered the Shri Betel temple with its columns adorned with bunches of banana flowers, reminiscent of the lush surroundings. However, my heart sank when I found the old Shri Betal temple in Poinguinim being reconstructed, leaving behind the structure as if abandoned. Witnessing those columns neglected like firewood was a poignant reminder of our disappearing architectural legacy.
Nevertheless, there is still hope as I explored the colourful wooden interior of the Shri Kashipurusha temple, in Shristal, where vibrant paintings depicting scenes from the Ramayana brought tales to life in a display of colours. As I journeyed through the hidden temples of Goa, a realization dawned upon me – these were more, than structures. They embodied the essence of Goan culture and history serving as living repositories of traditions and stories. In their interiors I could sense the echoes of centuries past – the hushed prayers, the sacred rituals and the bonds woven by generations.
These temples narrate a tale often overshadowed in Goas mainstream narrative. They recount an era preceding influence, when local artisans crafted sanctuaries from the bountiful forest resources imbuing them with grace and spirituality.
As my time in Goa drew to a close sentiment of gratitude mingled with apprehension within me. Grateful for uncovering these hidden places in Goa and treading in the footsteps of pilgrims within these havens yet troubled by their uncertain fate.
Numerous temples face threats of oblivion or modernization today. It's a nuanced dilemma – while I empathize with aspirations, for grander edifices I hold onto hope that these wooden marvels can endure through preservation efforts.
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