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The History of Indian Perfume and Attar: Mughal Raj

Chandni Chowk, popularly known by its other name, Dilli 6, is one of the oldest markets in Delhi, which was established by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. This market is a center of all traditions, history and culture, deeply rooted in its centuries old shops.


Gulab Singh Johrimal, Delhi’s oldest perfumery where one can smell the scent of flowers, spices, and oils near its alleyways. Established in 1816 by Lala Gulab Singh and his son Lala Johrimal, the perfumery continues to be operated and managed by the same family. This haven has been making Attar for centuries, which is no ordinary perfume.

Gulab Johrimal Perfumery in Chandni Chowk
Gulab Johrimal Perfumery in Chandni Chowk (Image:Tripadvisor)

Mukul Gundhi is the current keeper of this fragrant tradition. He shares a valuable tip for enjoying attar to its fullest: “Never apply perfume directly on the skin, even if it is in its purest form”. Instead, he suggests, “Dab a little perfume onto your palm, rub both the palms together and then dab your palm on the apparel you are wearing. This will ensure that even if you sweat the fragrance is not lost.”


The perfumes of Gulab Singh Johrimal are more than just pleasant smells. The centuries-old art of Deg Bhapka remains an essential pillar of ittar production. To preserve the natural essence within, enormous copper pots known as degs are filled with water and fresh flower petals then covered with cotton and clay. 

Ittars
Attars (Image credit: Leonie Broekstra/Shutterstock)

These pots are connected to a cooling vessel called the Bhapka, which is situated inside a water tank which travels through a bamboo pipe. Using wood and dung cakes, the pots are first slowly heated. After the distillation process is finished, the liquid is cooled and handled carefully by professionals. After that, this essence is distilled once more in a separate copper pot. At last, the precious ittar is produced. 


Delicate bottle of Attar line the shelves, each filled with a rich history as deep as its fragrance. It’s craft dates back thousands of years in India, with strong ties to the Mughal courts. The Indian perfume industry was greatly influenced by the Mughal Empire in particular. It was an essential part of daily life for the royal family and the nobility as it symbolized not just wealth, but the emperor’s connection to the divine (fragrance being seen as an ethereal gift from nature).


The perfumery's customers have included important figures like the daughters of Akbar Shah II and Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Emperor of India. These fragrances, which have been around during times of great change and empires rising and falling, have become a lasting part of the perfumery’s history.





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