As I write this article from a misty hill in Nagaland, wrapped in a traditional Naga shawl against the December chill, the distant sound of log drums echoes through the valleys. The morning sun hasn't fully pierced through the clouds yet, but Kisama Heritage Village is already alive with activity. The Hornbill Festival in Kisama Heritage Village which is located at a distance of 12 kilometers from Kohima sees 16 tribes of the Naga warriors getting ready for the celebration of another day.
Also known as the bird which is considered to significant in the Naga culture and mythology, this festival is not simply a cultural celebration, it is a testimony of Nagaland. The festival was started in the year 2000 and has now turned into what is called the “Festival of Festivals” by the locals.
When you are at the festival, you will be greeted by the sight of people celebrating culture. Here, the Angami warriors are dancing, brandishing their spears in the wintry sun. An elderly Ao woman is creating stories on brightly colored shawls and, further, young Sema musicians are producing traditional music with contemporary rhythms.
The scent of the traditional Naga food is in the air – pork smoked in the open, bamboo shoot recipes, and the fiery Raja mirchi or ghost peppers. Every tribal morung which is a traditional house has its own delicacies which have been passed down from the ancestors.
This is why the Hornbill Festival is unique and that is the realness that accompanies it. This isn't a show put on for tourists; it's a genuine celebration where tribal communities come together to strengthen their bonds. Warriors who once fought each other now share rice beer and stories, their children playing together in traditional attire. From the wood carvings to pottery making and from local games to contemporary music, the festival is an encapsulation of Naga culture then and now. The local craftsmen display their works with much pride and each piece is a narrative of a rich culture and skilled craftsmanship.
When the sun sets over Kisama, the entire village is set afire and the celebrations are still on. While at the stadium, there would be modern rock bands, in the traditional morungs, the elders are still telling the people stories of the past to pass down the wisdom that maybe helpful for the younger generation.
The Hornbill festival not only maintains culture but also develops it further. This is a place where elders can see their culture being preserved, parents can see their culture changing and children can dream of what they will contribute to the Naga society.
This is not only a sightseeing spot; this is Nagaland’s heart that goes strong and loud to welcome the world and showcase that it is a part of the modern world yet follows tradition like the great hornbill, strong, enduring and free.
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