While I was in Mizoram, I came across its heritage loom featuring a barrage of vibrant colours and intricate patterns adorned by women at their local festival. After enquiring from the locals, I learnt that the textile popularly known as Puanchei is the crown jewel of the Mizos.
While wandering through the markets of Mizoram, I interacted with a local who mentioned, her hands running over her own Puanchei, "this isn't just a textile weave. It's our history, our identity and our memoir." She explained this is more than just a festive skirt. Known for its immaculate designs which are inspired by nature, folklore and tribal motifs, the Puanchei features flower, animals, birds and other shapes as patterns.
The Puanchei was brought by the Mizos, indigenous people of Mizoram and adjoining states. They claim to have migrated from Sinlung of Chhinlung (somewhere in China) around 750 AD and eventually settled on the soils of Burma, Bangladesh, Assam, Manipur, Tripura, and Mizoram.
Handloom weaving for the community was the primary occupation for livelihood. Women traditionally learned this art at a young age. The men of the family contributed in the making of puan equipment while women practiced their art. These are often “status symbols” passed down from generation to generation as a family heirloom. The bride’s mother usually gifts this to her as a farewell gift.
What amazed me was the craftsmanship involved. Each Puanchei is a labour of love, woven on traditional looms by skilled artisans. As I wandered through local markets, I noticed how the Puanchei had evolved. While traditionally made with homespun cotton and natural dyes, many now incorporate synthetic yarns, offering a wider palette of colors.
The handloom weaving process begins with selecting the yarn. These are typically cotton and silk yarns. With the advent of fast fashion, most of the items have become synthetic. The next step is warming which determines the length and the width of the piece to be made. The third step in the process is setting up the lame followed by weaving. Within weaving, the weavers add supplementary yarns to create intricate designs. The last step is joining. Punchai is traditionally woven in three separate pieces which are carefully sewn together to create the final product. Unfortunately, the art is slowly dying given the preference for machine-made articles.
As I departed the state, I took with me the various love strands that unite the towns in the Northeast Along with a Puanchei that reflected the warmth and rich cultural legacy of the Mizo people in its vivid hues and intricate designs — a memory I will always treasure.
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