Situated in the scenic Nilgiri Hills of Tamil Nadu, the Toda people have maintained a rich cultural heritage for centuries. Of their numerous traditions, the most vivid and iconic is their beautiful hand embroidery, or Pukhoor. This distinctive type of embroidery, which involves a bold red and black pattern on a white background, is not only an artistic creation but a deeply rooted element of Toda identity.
Toda embroidery is not mere ornamented needlework; it is a traditional craft imbued with symbolism, meaning, and a strong affinity with nature. Each painstakingly handwoven piece bears testimony to a story, one that tells of the people's faith, lifestyle, and environment. Given a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, this craft has earned respect beyond the Nilgiris. In this article, we explore the history, process, symbolism, and contemporary relevance of this beguiling embroidery.
The Todas are a small indigenous community residing in the Nilgiri Hills of Tamil Nadu. They are conventionally pastoral in character and are known for their unique way of life, temple architecture, and elaborate funeral rites. Embroidery plays an important role in their daily and ceremonial attire, particularly among women.
This embroidery tradition is believed to be ancient and has been passed down from one generation to another. There is no specific history that tells about its origin, but it is deeply embedded in Toda culture. The practice of this art is predominantly carried out by women of the Toda community, who learn the art from the older generation and are careful not to deviate from it.
One of the most interesting things about this embroidery is that it is created without pre-drawn patterns or tracing. The patterns are drawn from memory, demonstrating the remarkable skill and accuracy of the artisans. The motifs employed in Toda embroidery are derived from nature, mythology, and daily life, which results in each piece being unique and significant.
Toda embroidery is a painstaking art demanding patience and accuracy. It is unlike most other forms of embroidery, which employ pre-painted patterns—the designs are drawn freehand by measuring the warp and weft threads of the fabric.
Fabric: The traditional method of Toda embroidery is performed on hand-spun cotton fabric, preferably in white. The fabric is loosely woven, which facilitates embroidery.
Threads: Red and black woolen or cotton threads are mainly employed. Sometimes blue is included.
Needles: A plain needle is employed, but the embroidery technique itself is special.
Stitching Technique
Toda embroidery uses a reverse darning stitch, producing a raised, embossed appearance on the fabric. The stitches are done from the back of the fabric so that the design appears on the front. This produces a textured, geometric pattern, which gives the embroidery its distinctive depth and beauty.
Unlike most embroidery techniques that employ various stitches, Toda embroidery is mostly based on this one technique, which makes it unique but extremely detailed. The process may take weeks or even months, depending on the intricacy of the design.
Every motif in Toda embroidery is symbolic in nature, most often reflecting the tribe's rapport with nature and their religious concepts. Some of the most common patterns are:
Sun and Moon Motifs: Symbolizing heavenly forces and their impact on existence.
Buffalo Horns: The Toda tribe worships the buffalo, and this design honors their pastoral traditional existence.
Hills and Rivers: These motifs derive inspiration from the Nilgiri terrain and describe the Todas' natural setting.
Temple Designs: Symbolizing the Toda shrines and religious connections.
Abstract Geometric Patterns: Usually indicating harmony, protection, and prosperity.
In the traditional context, Toda embroidery was used for clothing that both men and women wore. The most symbolic one is the "Puthukuli," an enormous embroidered shawl that men of the Toda community wear to ceremonies and special events. Women dress in embroidered skirts and blouses decorated with elaborate patterns.
With the growing popularity of handloom and indigenous art forms, Toda embroidery has entered fashion and home decor today. Some of its uses in contemporary times are:
Apparel: Saris, dupattas, kurtas, and jackets with Toda embroidery are becoming trendy in metropolitan markets.
Accessories: Bags, clutches, stoles, and even footwear are being decorated with Toda-inspired motifs.
Home Furnishing: Cushion covers, table runners, wall hangings, and upholstery fabrics are being created incorporating traditional Toda motifs.
Even with modernization, the spirit of Toda embroidery has not changed, retaining its originality and importance. Toda embroidery is not merely an art form; it is a living culture holding the history, faith, and identity of the Toda community. It is evidence of the patience, creativity, and resolve of humankind in sustaining cultural heritage.
In an age of fashion centered on mass production and factory-made textiles, Toda embroidery brings the handwork of these pieces to the foreground. By purchasing indigenous crafts like these, we're working toward sustainability, conservation of heritage, and providing economic livelihood to marginalized sections of society.