Kallu, the Malayalam term for toddy, is a mildly alcoholic beverage made from palm tree sap. With a milky appearance and a light, faintly fizzy body, toddy has a complex flavour profile—slightly sweet with a subtle fruity undertone that turns sourer, tangier and stronger as the day passes.
Toddy is deeply ingrained in Kerala's food culture, with its history stretching back centuries. References to palm wine can be found in ancient Tamil Sangam literature dating as far back as the 3rd century BCE. Kallu Shaaps or toddy shops have been around for generations, serving rural Keralites with the beverage and accompanying finger foods made with local catch and ingredients.
A shaap, which simply means 'shop' in Malayalam, typically refers to these humble establishments serving toddy and local cuisine. The famous toddy shop in Kadamakudy is much like its counterparts in Ernakulam, Alleppey, Kottayam and Thrissur—a humble shack with a tin sheet roof, exuding an unpretentious atmosphere.
During the colonial era, particularly under British rule, toddy shops became more formalized with licensing systems and regulations. However, in the 1940s, toddy fell victim to adulteration. Shaaps became synonymous with violent behaviour and health issues, often advised as 'not a place for women'.
Today, a lot has changed. Tourism and social media are allowing people to look at kallu shaaps with kinder eyes. Bolstered by stringent laws like the 1996 Kerala Abkari Shops Disposal Rules, shaaps are now a must-do countryside or coastal culinary experience.
Eating at a kallu shaap is not for the faint hearted.
Most are dimly lit, with basic plastic chairs and tables. The menu includes local specialties like kappa (boiled cassava) with meen (fish) curry, tharav (duck) roast, and chemmeen (prawns). The food—generously rolled in all kinds of spices—is freshly prepared in limited quantities; most toddy shops don't use refrigerators to preserve food. The billing system is paper-free, with each table's order value scribbled in white chalk on a dark wooden desk.
Come rain or sunshine, people flock to the shaap for the free-flowing fermented beverage and the array of mouth-watering dishes. Toddy shops now boast patrons across genders, age groups, social standings, and geographic borders.
Women patrons, once a rarity, are increasingly frequenting toddy shops. Staff goes above and beyond to ensure the safety and comfort of all patrons, particularly female customers and solo travellers. This shift represents a significant change from the male-dominated clientele of the past, marking a new era of inclusivity in these traditional establishments.
Bare-bones service, a limited food menu, and a spirit from the coconut palm—just like the drink, kallu shaaps are best experienced unadulterated, offering a true taste of Kerala's rich cultural heritage.
(Written by Niviya Vyas)
(Edited by Nikita Gupta)
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