Uttarakhand is a state formed just over two decades ago, but it boasts the customs carried on from centuries. Uttarakhand is not only a geographically rich region but is also known for its rich cultural heritage and traditions. And of all, Uttarakhand’s heritage features a unique and diverse collection of traditional jewellery. The jewelry worn by women in this region is not just an adornment but a symbol of prosperity, cultural identity, and marital status.
The intricate designs, inspired by nature and mythology, reflect the craftsmanship of the local artisans. Let’s explore some of the most significant pieces of traditional Uttarakhandi jewellery:
Guluband (गुलुबंद): The Guluband, is a choker style neck piece worn by married women. It features gold or silver panels called patti strung together and stitched onto a red, blue or black velvet fabric. One can get a Guluband with either 5, 7, 9 or 11 panels (patti), which usually has intricate detailing inspired by natural elements, regional folklore and cultural motifs. It is believed to bring good fortune to the wearer and is often gifted to brides as part of their wedding trousseau and is considered as a symbol of marital prosperity.
Ponchi (पोंछी): Ponchi are bangles meant to be worn as a pair, one in each hand, tied to the wrist. They are a lot like Guluband, in terms of the red soft velvet cushioned bed but are lined with gold balls, instead of patti, arranged in closely aligned rows, often with a tying mechanism to adjust the size to fit the wrist of the wearer. Also worn by married women, Ponchi are considered a symbol of good luck and prosperity in Uttarakhandi culture.
Hansuli (हंसुली): Hansuli is a rigid, crescent-shaped necklace made of silver or gold (mostly silver) that rests on the collarbone and hence gets its name from the hindi word for the same. This ornament is known for its sturdy yet elegant design. The Hansuli is often engraved with traditional motifs and is believed to provide protection and strength to the wearer. It is cherished for its understated beauty and is often passed down through generations, symbolizing both cultural pride and familial ties.
Bulaq (बुलाक): Bulaq is a nose pendant worn at the nasal septum, giving a distinctive look to Uttarakhandi women. This piece of jewelry is primarily made of gold, adorned with tiny embellishments and is meticulously designed with geometric patterns, flowers or animals. Bulaq is worn to symbolize cultural pride as well as the enduring spirit of women in the mountains and is passed on as a cherished heirloom. Although it is a rare ornament seen in the modern era, it still holds cultural significance in rural areas.
Timaniya (तिमणिया): Timaniya is a necklace combining a torsade of svelte strings of red, green, blue or black glass beads (generally red), and a bold centerpiece consisting of three gold capsules connected vertically. It is worn by married women, often as a mangal sutra as it is believed to bring goodluck and prolonged life to the husband. Timaniya is seen in a variety of styles, designs and sizes.
Besides being consistent in the Garhwal, Kumaon and Jaunsar regions of Uttarakhand, some variations of these jewellery pieces are seen in regions of Rajasthan, Nepal, and are also worn by Rajput women and Bhotia tribes.
As fulfilling as adorning these unique pieces seems, they aren’t the only ornaments worn by women of Uttarakhand. Some other jewellery pieces worn here like- mangtika, mangal sutra (charyo), payal (pauje), nath (nathuli), kamarband (tigdi), jhumkas (karnaphool), ear hoops (bali), are akin to jewellery in other parts of India but with slight changes, as introduced by regional artisans, craftsmen and jewellers over the years.
Despite the influence of modern trends, these ornaments continue to be a vital part of Uttarakhandi culture, preserving the ethos of its legacy for the generations to come.
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